Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Stellenbosch - 10/15/12



GABBY - Ben and I woke up to the hot, African sun, which was a bit surprising since the wind knocked a tree down into the electric fence last night and made a clicking noise similar to a metronome.  After packing up all of our gear, we set off on our 20 minute walk to the Waterfront.  We had our backpacks and other small bags as well, which made for quite a heavy load.  We made it about halfway when we decided to hail a taxi.  Good thing too, since we got the car rental location wrong.  “Budget doesn’t have a car rental place by the Waterfront” our taxi driver said, so we checked the confirmation and realized that it was actually in the center of Cape Town.  I’m glad we went with the taxi because that would have been a long walk.  We got our car, a blue Honda which we named Maria, and we were on our way.  I took the wheel since I have more experience driving on the “wrong side of the road”, as Ben puts it.  We had to get one last Kitchen sandwich before we headed out of Cape Town and onto our next stop.  We must have passed it, so I made a speedy, total legal (not in the US) U-turn and got us some love sandwiches for the road.  They were out of aubergines, so I tried the honey mustard sausage instead, which proved to be scrumptious.  We drove on the N2 until we reached wine country.  We arrived at our backpackers, Stumble Inn in Stellenbosch, South Africa around 11:30.  We had plenty of time to explore the town, known for Stellenbosch University and more importantly, their wine!  I had been to Stellenbosch 3 times during my study abroad experience, but never overnight.  We rented bikes from our hostel and took off down the streets towards some recommended wineries. I liked Ben’s quote about the bikes in his journal, “The bikes were old, uncomfortable, and rickety, but we were not, so we paddled off in search of a wine adventure.”  We made a right turn up Devon Valley road and pedaled and pedaled and pedaled looking for any of the vineyards that the hostel dude told us about.  We were looking at our map when a car pulled over and wanted to know if we knew of a lunch spot.  We exchanged information: we helped her find food, she helped us find wine.  We kept trekking until we found Clos Malverne.  We walked up to our first vineyard, looking for a wine tasting when we saw a man, about Ben’s age, appear at the door looking a bit inquisitive.  He asked if he could help us, we replied that we were looking for a wine tasting.  He told us that he was closed on Mondays.  My heart fell through my butt, seeing as we were so thrilled to have found our first winery.  I was crushed, and my face must have shown it because he seemed to take pity on us and invited us in for a glass.  His exact words were, “Come on in, it looks like you two could use a glass.”  We walked into the dining area of Clos Malverne and I lost my breath for the second time that day (the first was pedaling up that wretched hill).  The dining room had a window showcasing the jaw-dropping, breath-taking view of the Stellenbosch mountains, vineyard, and lake.  Tears came to my eyes as we took a window seat in the vacant restaurant and sipped on an ice cold glass of Clos Malverne’s own Sauvignon Blanc.  I think that was the first time that I have truly enjoyed white wine.  The guy that let us in was extremely friendly and hospitable.  He wouldn’t let us pay for the glasses of wine, which was just another testament of amazing humans can and should be.  I told Ben that he should start writing a book of all the amazing experiences he has had with hospitable people.  Most have occurred during his 70 day canoeing trip from Vermont to Canada.  We discussed going to another winery, but decided to end our bike tour on a good note.  On our way back to Stumble Inn we ran into a group of school kids walking home with their guardian.  They all stuck their hands out to give us high-fives.  There were so many of them that we started to slow down.  In no time we were swarmed by these kids, all trying to get high fives, hugs, or any type of attention we were willing to give.  We talked to the care giver, who shouted “Ayoba”, which I later found out meant cool, great, oh yea!  The caregiver insisted that we take the kids on bike rides.  We each took a young boy on our handlebars and took the kids for a ride up the road a bit.  I hugged the boy tight and tried to talk to him the whole ride.  I found out his name was Gavin and he liked the way the wind felt while he was sitting on the bike.  It felt so great to interact with children again.  The kids were full of so much energy and excitement, which was contagious.  After pictures and a long, Bittner goodbye (my family’s long goodbyes), and hugs we left feeling alive and fulfilled.  What an incredible experience to have on a nearly deserted road on our bikes.  We could not have predicted that, not in a million years.  We returned our bikes, showered, freshened up, and drove to Asara to finally have a wine tasting.  We pulled in to a driveway lined with trees on both sides and got out to take a look around.  After seeing the driveway, we were glad we hadn’t taken our bikes and decided to shower.  We were in a whole other proper world, certainly one without dirt, sweat, and bike grease.  We tried three different wines that tasted delicious in their own ways.  After our tasting, we went to dinner at Ryneveld ˚5.  We shared a carafe of red wine before gorging ourselves on specialty burgers.  This restaurant had a very trendy, artistic vibe and served fabulous grub.  We weren’t quite ready for bed, so we went to Bohemia, which is a bar close to the university.  We spent the rest of the night drinking brandy (South Africa’s equivalent to America’s rum) and cokes, flirting (with each other), people-watching and singing chapel choir songs all the way home.  

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